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video output on cave pcb's?

Started by Sycada, February 11, 2008, 07:17:11 PM

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Sycada

hey again,

Question for youcave PCB owners, what is the video output on these baby's? Do they have VGA outputs? or specifically, does Futari have one?

I'm asking because I'm looking at getting an atomiswave egret 3 cab which is only 20 mins from my house but the guy selling tells me that it uses vga plug to connect to the screen and I should check with you guys first.

Thanks

zakk

No, none of the Cave PCBs do VGA out. All of them are 15khz via the standard Jamma connector.

edit: The egret 3 should be able to handle 15khz via Jamma. I believe it has the VGA input specifically for 31khz stuff like Naomi and Atomiswave.

Sycada

Thanks Zakk.
The tech on this end says it'll be fine too, so now I'm sorting out the paperwork.
Looks like I'll have an Egret 3 before the weeks out :) sweet!

GaijinPunch

Technically, there is no VGA connector.  I assume you're referring to DSUB15?  My Arcade monitor has a DSUB15 input.  I use a converter so it will accept 21-pin RGB which my super gun (and most consoles output).    I could just as easily use a VGA cable assuming both ends had it sorted out.

SuperPang

The AWSD, which is the cab you mean I assume has a Samsung/Orion - Wei-ya tri-sync FST monitor which supports 15khz over JAMMA and 31khz over JAMMA or VGA. Just make sure the VGA cable is connected at the bottom of the cab and it should run SH-3 fine. However, be warned these monitors have a hard time syncing with the PGM based games and you'll be adjusting the hold a lot for those.

Sperrfeuer

in the other topic you said you will play mainly low res cave shmups..so this cab is not the right choice IMO
As Pang already said you can / will have have sync problems with PGM hardware(galuda,DDP DOJ....) and maybe with older cave PCB's too (ESPrade,DDP... read the first post here http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=325554#325554 )

Also the cab has big scanlines in 15khz and the colors are not as beautiful as on a Dualsync monitor

here you can see a AWSD @15khz with a Samsung / WEI-YA Monitor
http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=awrx1.jpg

here a Egret2 @15khz with a Toshiba/  Nanao MS9-29  Monitor
http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=egret2aj8.jpg

also the monitor has no frame, and so rotating the monitor is quite difficult (and you have to disconnect some cables)

The AWSD is a great highres cab, but if you really only need it for lowres shmups it is not the right choice

Sycada

Well it's too late now ;) . It's getting delivered next week. Just about the only place I could find in the same STATE that even dealt with arcade machines and it happened to be 20 mins away so big delivery savings!
However I'm only gonna be buying newer cave games that are Espgaluga 2 and beyond because I can't justify the price of buying a pcb if I already have access to the game through ports and so on.  especially since there are so many newer games that I've never even had a chance to play.
Thanks for all the assistance you guys.

Sycada

so I've got the cab (egret 3) and looking at the instructions there's no real info on how to switch monitor orientation.
Anyone here got any info or know any good guides on how to do it? I'm a total arcade novice so this cab is quite a daunting task for me.
Futari will be arriving soon and I'd love to have it in vert mode all ready to play ;)
Any help greatly appreciated.

KOMA

Don't to do it by yourself if you're not experience with this kind of manipulation.The Egret 3 and Egret AW have not frame,so you can easily broke the tube's neck.
Call a friend.

Sperrfeuer

Quote from: KOMAThe Egret 3 and Egret AW have not frame,so you can easily broke the tube's neck.
Call a friend.
yeah that's the biggest problem...

Do you have a Toshiba or a Wei-Ya Monitor (open the backdoor there should be a sticker)

of course the cab must be turned of and disconnect from voltage (do it some hours before you want to rotate it...)

first you have to disconnect the cables between tube and chassis (be very careful, the fat orange/red one can have 20 000V and also the other ones can have dang. voltage...)
!!READ THIS FIRST!!
http://www.stickycarpet.com/pinx/md.html
http://www.instantarcade.com/discharge.php

and take of the small PCB from the neck of the tube...so basically your CRT is not connected to something anymore

after this unscrew the 4 wing nuts (at the front of the cab, holding the CRT in place), pull out the monitor (very heavy you need 2 person for this!!) and rotate it 90deg anticlockwise  and put it back..and do the same procedure reverse..(connect everything blabla..).......that's it

but as tug said...if you don't know exact what you are doing it's very dangerous for you and the monitor...

KOMA

I think is not necessary to disconnect the cables between tube and chassis.However, if you're alone to do the job it's preferable.
Sperrfeuer are you Radiant member at Killercab by any chance?

Sperrfeuer

yes i am ;)

IIRC there are at least 2 cables which are too short.....you maybe can leave the fat orange high voltage cable, as it is long enough (and IMO the most dangerous cable)
i also highly recommend to take of the neck PCB, as you can easy hook into something with it...

i rotated my awsd with and without cables and it is more easy (IMO) if you disconnect the cables...

Sycada

Thanks heaps for all your advice you guys. :)

From what I can see it's neither, it's  a Samsung monitor.
It's an Atomiswave Egret3 and there's a sammy logo on it. It's had a power transformer installed in it to work properly in Australia.

I had no idea this would be so dangerous. I'm really not feeling too comfortable about this because, yeah I don't know much about stuffing around inside electrical equipment.
I mean I wanna play shooters in my cab but I'm really not up for potential death. Maybe I should just get a technician in.....

Sperrfeuer

NORMALLY the monitor should discharge itself (after some time via some resistors)  and it should not be dangerous BUT you never know, and so be very very careful if you work with these things....

also...take a pic before you disconnect something....it can be very helpful for reassemble.....;)

your cab has a Samsung tube with a WEI-YA chassis BTW

Sycada

Yep, gonna sleep on it for tonight. I will be getting the monitor rotated for sure, just whether I do it myself or get a tech in to do it for me is the real question.
I assume that once the monitor is all disconnected and ready to be rotated it sits fine until it is actually lifted for the rotation right? I'm physically fit but will definately get someone else on board to help lift it if it's super heavy as you say. The cab itself was a nightmare to get up the stairs into my apartment. :)

Sycada

Another question (I know I ask more than a few) :).
I was just taking a look at the cab again, I opened up the front of the machine to expose the monitor and saw the nuts you described as well as the metal harness that holds the screen in place. So with that great big metal frame around the outside of the tv, is it possible that the TV might discharge voltage right through the frame while your rotating it? or is that one of the reasons you would want to expel any charge beforehand? :)

I feel like I should be wearing a rubber suit when I do this :laugh:

zakk

No, it's not going to discharge anything through the frame.

The only really dangerous bits are the anode (the big wire+suction cup on the tube) and some parts of the deflection board. And even then you'll live if you get zapped; plenty of people have.

If you have to disconnect stuff your level of concern depends on what you need to disconnect. I really wouldn't worry about pulling the neckboard off the tube or disconnecting some of the chassis cables (but watch your hands so they don't brush against big capacitor contacts). If you have to take off the anode wire then that warrants a bit of caution.

Honestly your biggest concern here is slipping and shattering the tube neck.

Just keep your left hand in your pocket while poking about the wires and chassis and use some common sense.